Here
some answers to questions you might be asking yourself....
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- Which video-housing do I need for my
camcorder ?
- Which photo-housing do I need for my
photo camera ?
- Which rain-cape is appropriate
to my camcorder and/or photo-equipment ?
- How deep can I dive with these flexible housings ?
- Do I have to remove excess air from
the housing ?
- How can I operate the protected
equipment in the flexible ewa-marine housing ?
- What do I need the AV110 and the C-AF adapter for
?
- Can I still use the microphone ?
- What maintenance does the housing require ?
- Are these flexible housings realy waterproof ?
- What is the "Silica-gel"
supposed to be good for ?
- How durable are these protecting-housings and what kind of
life expectancy do they have?
- Is it possible to repair a housing
if it should get damaged ?
- More questions? Send us am e-mail !
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How deep can I dive with these flexible housings
?
For the average camera / camcorder the following
depths have been tested:
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video-housings |
max.
10m |
/ 30 feet |
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compact-housings |
max.
10m |
/ 30 feet |
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SLR-manual-housings |
max.
15m |
/ 45 feet |
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SLR-AF-housings |
max.
20-50m |
/ 60-150
feet |
(depending
on the model, as per our typesheet) |
The depths given are maximum figures, which
should not be exceeded. The protecting-housing will not start leaking
at greater depths, but the handling of the camera / camcorder will
restricted. As the water-pressure increases, the foil wraps around
the camera like a skin. Due to this, the foil can start to press
the start-/rec-button, other buttons or even stop the tape from
moving (in the case of camcorders). Stop the descend immediately!
As you go back towards the surface, the pressure decreases and all
should go back to normal.
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Do I have to remove excess air from the housing
?
In accordance with the law of physics according
to Boyle-Mariotte (pressure x volume = constant) the volume of air
in the housing (just as that in the lungs, diving jacket and the
air inclusions in the diving suit) decreases as you descend under
water. The air is pressed into the camera / camcorder.
As we want the pressure inside the housing to be the same as the
surrounding pressure, we have to start the dive with a suitable
amount of air inside the housing. The foam pads supplied with the
housing are part of this air "reservoir". In the case
of the U-A, U-AX and U-AXP additional air can be blown into the
housing to ensure, that the maximum potential volume is being utîlised.
On the other hand, if you only want to snorkel, you might want
the housing to handle relatively neutral in the water....
Tip: |
If you want to snorkel or film
on the beach, remove all access air. |
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If you want to go diving, ensure
that there is enough air depending on your planed dive
depth. |
also read:
"Photo-
and video-leads" |

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How can I operate the protected equipment
in the flexible ewa-marine
housing
?
The zoom and record / shutter buttons can
operated from the outside on all housings. In some cases we have
fitted a "finger" into the housing to allow you to reach
a control better. Any controls that you can not reach should be
set to automatic or switched off. We have also got pouches
for mobile phones and VHF radios. These can also be used while inside
the pouch with only about 5% loss in sound quality. |

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What do I need the AV110
and the C-AF
adapter for?
The auto-focus adapter AV110 (included ex
factory with all U-A, U-AX, U-AXP and U-AZ shipped) is bolted into
the tripod mount of the camera and is used to maintain a predetermined
distance between the camera body and the front port of the housing.
The one end is bolted onto the camera and the clear poly-carbonate
ring is clicked onto the outside of the inner frame of the front
port. The AV110 function is to ensure, that the water pressure
can not press against the lens. This is extremely important in the
case of externally focusing lenses, as the pressure would change
the preselected settings of the lens and stop operation of the autofocus.
Unfortunately the AV also hinders you from adjusting lens settings(
zoom etc.) while under water. These settings have to be preselected.
On the other hand, if you would like to make pictures above
water or are only using fully internally focusing lenses, we ca
also recommend the C-AF-adapter set. (the C-AF is standard with
all U-F... series housings as well as C-AF and C-AFX) The C-AF is
used in place of the AV-110 and screws directly into the filter
thread of the lens. It is the clicked directly into the front port.
The special rotating ring allows the lens to turn while securely
docked into the front port. In most cases, the zoom on externally
focusing lenses can now be adjusted inside a housing of the U-A...
series by gently pulling or pushing on the front port. (but only
above water !)
Also visit the following product
type sheets to find out furter details:
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Can I still use the microphone
The sound will be transmitted through the
foil. Alas there will be a certain loss in quality against the use
outside the housing. The sound will be somewhat muffled. If you
need perfect sound, while protecting your valuable asset, please
enquire as to our cable outlet for up to 4 cables, absolutely water
proof. |

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What maintenance does the
housing require ?
There is no need to apply a special
lotion or other chemical agent to the housing in regular intervals
(on the contrary, this could cause damage, depending on its chemical
properties!) After use in salt water, all that has to be done, is
to rinse the housing in clear, fresh water at the end of the day.
After returning home at the end of your holiday, a drop of regular
machine oil onto the screws of the closing rail can be recommended.
As you know. salt water is a very aggressive environment for any
material: so just rinse it off and dry the housing. That's all.
Do not expose the housing to direct sunlight for extended periods
of time. A greenhouse effect will develop inside the housing and
that is something that will do neither camera, film or housing any
good. Cover it with you towel. With regards to long term
storage, keep the housing in a dark, dry place and do not flatten
it by putting other things on top of the housing. Folds in the material,
and /or extreme fluctuations of temperature together with the factor
time can start microscopic cracks forming in the foil. So, store
its loosely and put a piece of foam into the opening to allow the
air to circulate. |

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Are these flexible
housings realy waterproof ?
All our housings are absolutely water-tight.
We have been manufacturing this kind of housing since 1970. If they
weren't perfectly safe and waterproof it is unlikely that we would
have survived this long as the leading manufacturer of water protection
for cameras and have sold over 850.000 units world wide.
The foil is formed and welded on special machines, some of which
have been tailor made for our products. Every single housing is
subjected to a series of rigorous tests before being made ready
for shipping. All products are manufactured in our factory in Kirchheim
near Munich, Germany. Quality "made in Germany".
Each time before taking the housing into the water you should make
your own test. Who knows if the unit has not been damaged by negligence,
vibrations during transport, etc. since you last used it ? Just
close the empty housing with as much air as possible, submerge it
completely under water and apply additional pressure. If it has
a puncture, you will see bubbles rising from the hole, if not, all
is well and ready for the next action. As the internal and external
pressure are always the same in the flexible housings. (the air
inside the housing gets compressed as you dive), a housing that
is waterproof at 1 ft. will also remain waterproof up to 100 ft
and more. NOTE:
There is a groove at the rear of the closing rail. As you submerge
the housing bubbles will escape from this grove. This should last
for about 1/2 Minute and before coming to an end. This phenomena
is normal and has nothing to do with whether the housing is waterproof
or not. |

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What is the "Silica-gel" supposed
to be good for ?
Air, especially warm air in the vicinity of
water, contains moisture. This moisture gets caught in the housing
when you install your camera or camcorder. When you enter the cooler
water, this moisture will appear as drops of condensation on the
front port, the lens or on the body of the camera. This phenomena
can be eliminated by adding a "silica-gel" drying agent
into the housing. The more humid the air, the more you will need.
Add the sachets and close the housing about 15-20 minutes before
diving to give chemicals time to act. Our CD-5, "camera
dry" is supplied as standard with all video and SLR-housings.
The moisture will change the colour of the crystals from blue to
pink, when saturated. They can be dried again in the sun or with
a hair dryer. This process can be repeated 4-5 times. |

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How durable are these protecting-housings
and what kind of life expectancy do they have ?
That depends entirely on the
user... Although our products generally have no moving
parts, you will expose them to a very aggressive environment. A
little tender love and care will be well rewarded and give you many
years of pleasure. Don't just throw the housing into your
garage, cellar or attic after you've returned home ! If you've been
in salt water, please rinse the housing with (luke warm) fresh water
at the end of the day. Put a drop of oil onto the tread of the closing
rail screw before putting it back into storage. And be careful of
sharp corral, wrecks, diving knifes and nails and splinters sticking
out of the jetty. We regularly meet people at shows who
still own and happily use housings from our first year of manufacturing
these products. Model year 1970. How long will you be using your housing? |

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Is it possible to repair
a housing if it should get damaged ?
In most cases we are able to
repair any damage caused by wear and tear as well as force. (alas,
no repair will be possible, if an attempt has been made to glue
the housing. Glue damages the molecular structure irreversibly.
In case of an emergency only the use of silicon-glue may be used
to seal the housing provisionally) Please send the damaged housing
to the following address with a note explaining the problem. In
case of shipments from outside the EU, mark the parcle "damaged
goods for repair by manufacturer" and state a value of US$
1,-- or Euro 1,-- for custom purposes. Also include payment for
the return shipment or your UPS, DHL or FedEx customer account number.
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ewa-marine GmbH |
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coustomer service |
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c.o. Ms Kaetzlmeier |
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Liebigstr. 9 |
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D- 85551 Kirchheim d. Muenchen |
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Germany |
Alternatively, send it directly
to ewa-marine (Australia) and we will take care of the details for
you.
Please test the housing about
4-6 weeks prior to that dream holiday. That way, should damage have
occurred since you last used your housing, we will be able to receive
your housing, repair it and return it before you leave. |

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